Monday, May 08, 2017

Finch and Upper Eagle Glacier

4/17-4/22 2017. Stellar week of high pressure, Billy and I headed in for a week of peak bagging focused ski-mountaineering. I had been wanting to do a trip like this for years inspired after JT and Toby did a similar 2 day binge.

Alpine Air dropped us off in the afternoon on the lower Finch Glacier outside the CSP border at around 3,000'. We moved up to mid-glacier on the first day, dumped our stuff and headed out to climb the east ridge of Finch Peak.



The ridge is quite corniced, however there are a few spots you could sneak onto the face if you really wanted a ski descent. We were happy just climbing it and getting a feel for conditions.
Whitecrown, off the Sparrow Glacier. Bad Ass!


I found this cornice moat on the way up. All of a sudden I was 6' lower than where I was standing. We often on this trip played the game of "Choss, Moat, Cornice"





Finch peak is the one just off center in the back. The next day we humped our loads up the pass separating the Finch and Eagle Glaciers. Bunting peak is right there and made for a sub 1 hr up and down.

While on the summit we spied a sneaky pass to get over to the top of the Whiteout Glacier - and from there over to Whiteout peak. After some discussion we decided to go for it. Brought our camp gear back down about 1,000', dumped it and started up the pass and Whiteout.

There were about 1 week old ski tracks on Whiteout, and feeling lazy we decided to climb right up the west face rather than the lower angle north route. It was rad.








Day 3 - We went to the pass to the Eagle Glacier and decided what to do next. Roost Peak was on the docket for the day. Whenever you get a clear view up the Eagle River Valley it's the big glaciated peak in the back that you see.   It's north ridge is it's main feature and was calling us. There are easier ways to get up there but aesthetics had us... It's an amazing climb, up through some big cravasse fields, to a steep pitch, then a narrow ridge walk to the summit.







Felt super awesome to be at the head of Eagle River valley! The N. Facing descent was superb. Steep headwall with mandatory bergschrund hop.





We met up with Rob Whitney and a friend of his. We talked ourselfs into going to Rosies for the night while or original plan was to head up glacier for a better access to GoldenCrown. It's easy to forget how high off the glacier Rosies is, but at the end of the day with a big pack you'll feel it.
Rosies was fairly full so I camped outside for the peace and quiet of the morning.

Billy modeling the latest mountain fashion and embracing the "Noonattack"

We eventually motivated and slogged across the glaicer to the S. ridge of Goldencrown. The access looked better than the N. Ridge, but our spirits were a bit dampened when we saw our climbing route - long and somewhat rotten looking. We got on the ride, cashed skis and went hiking...
The upper ridge was seriously exposed and insecure. We roped for much of it and used pickets and choss slings when we could. Progress was pretty slow, but safe, and the weather and location were outrageous.










Re-traced our route, and bombed back down to Rosies, covering the 2 hr approach in about 15 minutes.

Had Rosies to ourselves the last night of the trip.  Weather kinda closed in and the Raven headwall did not soften up leaving us with a gripping side slip to get out. Skiing out crow pass sucked but we were back at the car before we knew it. Amazing trip, easy logistics!





Saturday, April 30, 2016

Winter Classic Gear

Doing the Classic really brought out the inner gear geek in me. Owning a gear company only makes obsessing about having the right stuff just that much worse, and it's compounded that I have the means to build and modify just about anything made out of fabric.

Luc has some excellent posts I learned a lot from him - so much of this is going to be redundant.

Skis:
Glittertind 210's - We skate skied (up!) a decent amount of glare ice&overflow. full edges mandatory!
Dynafit toe pieces
Swix CT3 poles - Affixed a BD powder basket above the nordic basket, also added a second lower grip and strap at classic ski height. Padded grip using bike bar tape - These worked super awesome! The CT3's are right at that performance level of strong and light.
Scarpa F3's - Modified, tongues, locking mechanism & front buckle removed. I built seam sealed liner "over-socks" so my liners and feet were waterproof. These were the bomb and worked great.
Skins - Tip to heal skinny skins. - Used them a ton.

I was really happy with this setup, my only changes would be to add heal risers on the skis. With all the climbing on the N. Route my Calves got super tight by the third day - this eventually lead to a hobble-in finish as my achilles tendons were inflamed and not happy. Focusing more on flexibility prior to the trip would have been a good thing too.

The other thing is that the classic ski motion tends to cram toes into the front of the boot. Molding liners with double toe cups is a good idea. I had to cut the toe portion of my insoles out on day 4 to make more room.

Camp:
Western mountaineering Puma -25 bag
Xtherm max pad
BD Beta light shared between us two.
Whisperlite international, one 22 oz bottle and a platypus with more fuel
1.5L big aluminum pot

Solid, no changes here. Lots of people use personal canister stoves in the classic. But I liked the white gas share with a big pot system. No messing around warming canisters up.

Clothing:
(warm temps influenced this a good deal..)
Icebreaker thin wool tights
Patagonia guide pants
Patagonia micro puff pants
Smartwool merino T
Revelate Powerline hoodie (original prototype)
NW Alpine Alpha hoodie
Montt Bell Alpine lite down parka
Rab Wind pro gloves
Pearl Izumi lobster gloves - (worthless on multi-day)
Old REI primaloft puff mitts
Merino buff
Normal Buff cut in half for ears and face protection
thin wool hat
Baseball cap

All good - was perfect for the temps. If it were colder I would have wanted beefier travel layers for my legs and better face protection, might also swap for a heavier down parka.  My glove system needed some tweaking too. The lobster mits were on their way out and useless once they got wet -  but I brought them anyway. I was usually between using the rab gloves and the mitts and a little too warm or a little too cold.

Pack:
I have friends in high places and got my hands on Cilo Gear Dyneema 60L worksack. This pack is a piece of art and way burlier than the HMG packs everyone has been using. Maybe overkill but it's an awesome and versatile pack. I use the pull out foam bivy sheet constantly.

Camera:
Sony a6000 with kit lens and 3 batteries, carried in an Osprey front accessory bag thingy.  This worked well but needed some modifications for the straps to all play nice.

Perhaps the coolest gear I had was a mesh vest I made ,dubbed (by Dusty) the Alpine Snacker. It was just a mesh vest with 2 big front pockets that fit below sternum strap but above waist belt. It was the bomb. I would load up a day of food each morning, camera batteries etc in there and also store a .5 L Hydrapak soft flask. Loved this system. I might use a 750ml flask next time as I could easily polish off the .5 in one stop and have to re-fill from overlow or my 40L Nalgene wide mouth soft bottle thing.

Sat phone from Thomas and a repair kit that I'm not going to spell out everything.

My pack weight was around 35 lbs at the start with 6 days of food (no water)




Monday, April 11, 2016

2016 Winter Wilderness Ski Classic


A blog resurrection? say it aint so! I guess I've been wanting to do a little more with my photos than just than them on Facebook lately.

The first few years I lived in Alaska I got to work on the North Slope a bunch. Mainly doing Spring hydrology studies, but a few times for winter construction inspection for 2 month saints. During this trips the highlight was often the flight during approach to Deadhorse, flying over the massive snowy expanse of the Brooks Range. I would gaze and daydream about traveling through this great white of mountains devoid of human sign.

One summer I brought my bike and had the chance to do a fast paced bike tour from Deadhorse down the Dalton. Pent up from weeks of work I hammered myself into the hills and ended up massively underestimating just how hilly the Dalton was! I experienced the bonk of my life after almost 500 miles sitting on the side of the road on a sunny day, out of food and my heart rate racing about 50 miles from Fairbanks. But this post is not about that trip, what I'm getting to is that somehow it took me another 12 years (!) before getting back up to the Brooks for a winter trip.

I wanted to do the winter classic for years, always half committing and being all talk but not carrying through with it. Finally this year I went to AMH, bought some Glittertinds and started "gearing" my way mentally into entry. Sometimes you really do just start to spend money to convince yourself you're doing something. Along the way somehow I talked Erica into being my partner. It did not take much, just constantly mentioning the classic seemed to be enough.

It was probably the worst snow year in Anchorage to train for such a trip. Having a kid and running a business has kept my big BC days pretty low, so I compensated with a decent amount of early morning garage-core workouts, hillside ice-skis(?) and bike rides. Anyway...

Getting to the start of this is an adventure in it's own right. 6 hrs north from Fairbanks above the arctic at Wiseman, you're still 2 hrs from the start further north at Galbraith Lake. Up there!

Natalie, Erica and Brad before leaving Wiseman.



So the morning of the start, amid last minute packing, Erica and I finally actually sit down and talk about the route. (!) We both are not into the 25 mile each way out and back that the Perigine pass route takes. My aim was to do a sweet fast paced ski trip, not really race others and leap frog. Turns out she was on the same page. We look at the graceful arc that the Northern Route takes across all new country to us and settle on it. We knew at least one other group of Scott and John were heading at least part of the way along the north.

Erica on the first day

We take off and before long are breaking trail on our own across the Itkillik River, although pretty deep there was still a supportable base. We were pretty sure we were ahead of Scott and John but were thinking they might have switched to the normal route after not seeing them follow our trail across the Itillik which took forever.
iPhone 6 nav
A few hours in we started wallowing, the supportable base was gone and our trail breaking slowed into a sugary base. At times you'd be mid-calf deep stuck in a sugar snow hole. Moral sunk. We crested a hard earned hill and had an honest sit down. Anaktuvuk pass was 50 miles away at least and this pace was a ton of work. I was wavering between going back and talking ourselves to keep going, 50/50, mainly I did not want to scratch due to a whim on choosing the northern route. Erica had similar thoughts, in the end we opted to contine, we did after all bring 6 days of food. Our reasoning was even if we take 4 days to get to Anaktuvuk pass we would have a highway of trail to follow and enough reserves to finish. Diving in, we keep going.
First day foothills


The next morning we eventually dropped into a ravine and to our surprise found a set of ski tracks! We were both shocked and stoked to go find these guys and share the trail breaking. Turns out they got up way earlier than us as we spent at least the next hour skinning up their trail into the big rolling foothills.
Heading up Scott and John's tracks




North siders!

We were all pretty psyched to be traveling tighter it was a big mental break for everyone. We were not out there alone, we could share breaking trail and had some mental company.  The weather was un-beatable too!




As evening wore on I noticed Erica was simply flying when breaking trail, she was an absolute machine and I could barely keep up with her.  I finally caught up and realized she had been rocking out to cheesy pop music and offered it up. Well that shit works and I took off stomping until it was time to fall over. Truth be known, I had "all about that Bass" and (to my astonishment) Mariah Carey's 95' "Fantasy" stuck in my head the ENTIRE race, even before I got my chance at the nano. It kept me laughing to myself that's for sure.


Day 3 - once again Scott and John beat us moving in the morning by well over an hour. As we crested a small divide the landscape changed to more wind hammered snow, less trail breaking. Sastrugi etc. We were rounding the corner to the Anaktuvuk river finally.

Some fun skating and slogging lead us to the river proper in the middle of a huge open valley. The minute we turned south we hit a headwind that did not relent until we reached the village like 9 hrs later. It was never that bad, just constant. The main thing I learned is that I would have been under-geared if temps were below zero in that kind of wind.



Erica and I were spent upon reaching the village, muscles were starting to fail, feet to rot. We exploded in the school home ec room where Luc and Holly served as the checkpoint. It was a total shock to be inside a warm comfortable building after the day we had and the crazy ice we skied across.




Scott was feeling like shit from a cold induced lung bronchitis ailment and hung back at the school while Erica  John and I found the nearest spot out of the wind to make camp. Our new team of 3 was short lived when to our awesome amazement Scott came skiing up the hill feeling better in the morning to join up with John. Rally! Woo hoo!


The rest of the trip went by in a blur and was pretty un-eventfull, just solid travel in a constantly beautiful place. We toured up to Ermine pass and down the fantastic trail through the Valley of the Precipices broken in by the leaders and were on the Kuskokuim, camping between the mountains that make up Gates of the Arctic by night fall. From there out we sadly did not see any other groups again. The skiing was awesome and diverse, glare ice - overflow, skating, classic, animal tracks everywhere, super fun!





We brewed up at 7:00 and made dinner at the turn off to Delay pass getting off the river. The conversation went something like, "well, should we start racing? we have not done that yet?" with that we pushed through the night finishing at 4:30 am. My increasingly tight calves reached the tipping point and I was locked up and hobbling on the many climbs, forcing me to double pole a lot of stuff and even walk. It was not the strong and graceful finish I had hoped for... The rumors of a long final downhill were a bit exaggerated. At Wiseman so many people had finished the day before that I just bivied in the yard and could barely walk to breakfast 3 hrs later with super tight and rather inflamed Achilles tendons.  Worth it, a week out and they are almost better...

Immediately I was thinking about next year. I can't wait. So fun.
Thanks to Erica, Scott, John, Luc, Dave Kramer, Bernie and the Hicker family, David, Kate and Sarah for the ride home. 


Katie's Post